The best tips for mastering double knit fabric in 2025

The best tips for mastering double knit fabric in 2025

Successfully sewing with Double Knit fabric requires understanding its unique properties. It also demands applying specific techniques to avoid common issues like stretching, skipped stitches, or bulky seams. Sewers often find managing the bulkiness of dense fabrics such as 36/43/21 COTTON/NYLON/SPAN DOUBLE KNIT PIQUE challenging at seams and darts. This guide provides essential tools and techniques. It helps sewers confidently work with materials like 50sr+(50dn+30d Sp) Punto Roma, ensuring professional-looking results in their sewing projects. Master this fabric in 2025 with these actionable tips for flawless creations.

Key Takeaways

  • Double knit fabric has two layers of stitches. This makes it stable and prevents curling edges.
  • This fabric is easier to sew than other knits. It does not stretch much and holds its shape well.
  • Always pre-wash double knit fabric. This stops it from shrinking later.
  • Use a ballpoint or stretch needle. This prevents holes and skipped stitches.
  • Choose polyester all-purpose thread. It stretches with the fabric and is strong.
  • A walking foot helps feed fabric evenly. This stops seams from getting wavy.
  • Press seams as you go. Use a press cloth to protect the fabric.
  • Use a twin needle for hems. This gives a clean, stretchy finish.

Understanding Double Knit Fabric: What Makes It Unique?

Understanding Double Knit Fabric: What Makes It Unique?

Defining Double Knit Structure and Characteristics

Two Layers of Stitches for Stability

Double knit fabric stands apart due to its unique construction. Manufacturers create this fabric using two needle beds, typically found on the cylinder and dial of a circular knit machine. This dual-needle system allows for the simultaneous formation of loops on both the front and back sides of the fabric. These loops expertly interweave, creating a dense and stable material. The knitting process involves three primary cycles: knit, tuck, and float. These cycles apply consistently to both sets of needles. The knit cycle forms the basic stitch, while the tuck cycle adds texture and thickness. The float cycle creates intricate patterns. Synchronization of these cycles across both needle sets ensures fabric uniformity and integrity.

Minimal Stretch and Excellent Recovery

Double knit fabrics offer a premium hand and weight, which contributes to a tactile impression of quality. This dual-layer structure increases the fabric’s density, providing extra warmth and resilience. It also results in a stable drape. The fabric often feels heavier compared to other knit fabrics. Its structural stability makes cutting, sewing, and finishing easier. Double knit structures can be engineered with varying degrees of connection between layers. Tighter connections result in firmer fabrics suitable for structured garments. More relaxed connections offer greater stretch and drape for comfort-focused applications.

Stable Edges and Reduced Fraying

One significant advantage of double knit fabric is its inherent stability. The edges do not curl or roll, which simplifies handling during cutting and sewing. This characteristic also means the fabric resists fraying much more effectively than single-layer knits. This stability contributes to cleaner finishes and more durable projects.

Common Uses for Double Knit

Structured Garments and Activewear

Double knit fabric is a popular choice for many types of apparel. Its structured nature makes it ideal for creating garments that require shape and body. Common uses include dresses, blazers, and various other apparel items. The fabric’s durability and recovery also make it suitable for activewear, providing comfort and support.

Home Decor and Upholstery

Beyond clothing, double knit finds its place in home decor. Its robust nature and stable drape make it excellent for upholstery projects. It also works well for decorative pillows and other items needing a fabric that holds its shape and withstands wear.

Designer Double Knit Examples: Chanel and Givenchy

High-end fashion houses recognize the quality of double knit. Designers like Chanel and Givenchy have famously incorporated this fabric into their collections. They value its ability to create structured silhouettes and luxurious garments that maintain their form.

Why Double Knit is a Great Choice for Sewers

Ease of Handling Compared to Other Knits

Sewers, especially beginners, often find double knit fabric much easier to work with than other knits. Its stability reduces common frustrations.

Feature Double Knit Fabric Single Jersey Knit Fabric
Stretch Tends not to stretch as much as single knits Stretches more than double knits
Recovery Usually has good recovery (Implied less stable recovery compared to double knit)
Cut Edges Don’t curl; fabric lays flat Tend to curl toward the right side
Layers Two layers bonded together Single layer
Appearance Often looks the same on both sides Looks different on front and back (knit vs. purl)

Less Curling and Rolling Edges

The non-curling edges of double knit fabric are a significant benefit. This feature means less time spent wrestling with fabric that rolls up on itself. It allows for more precise cutting and easier seam alignment.

Durability and Longevity of Projects

Projects made from double knit fabric tend to last a long time. Its dual-layer construction provides enhanced durability and resilience. Garments and home decor items maintain their shape and appearance through repeated use and washing.

Pre-Sewing Preparation for Double Knit Success

Pre-Washing and Drying Double Knit Fabric

Preventing Shrinkage After Construction

Pre-washing fabric is a crucial first step for any sewing project, especially with knits. This process helps prevent unexpected shrinkage after a garment is complete. Fabric can shrink when first exposed to water and heat. Pre-washing ensures the fabric reaches its final shrunken state before cutting and sewing. This step guarantees the finished project maintains its intended size and shape.

Setting Fibers and Removing Residue

Washing also helps set the fabric fibers. It removes any manufacturing residues, such as sizing or chemicals, that might affect the fabric’s drape or how it interacts with sewing machine needles. Clean fabric is easier to work with and provides a better foundation for a professional finish.

Recommended Washing and Drying Methods

Always follow the care instructions provided by the fabric manufacturer. Generally, wash Double Knit fabric in cool or warm water on a gentle cycle. Tumble dry on low heat or lay flat to air dry. Avoid high heat, which can damage the fibers or cause excessive shrinkage.

Choosing the Right Pattern for Double Knit

Patterns Designed for Stable Knits

Selecting the correct pattern is essential for successful Double Knit projects. Look for patterns specifically designed for stable knit fabrics. These patterns account for the fabric’s structure and minimal stretch. They ensure the garment will fit and drape as intended.

Avoiding Excessive Drape or Fluidity

Double Knit fabric has body and structure. Therefore, avoid patterns that require very fluid or drapey fabrics. Patterns designed for chiffons or rayons will not yield the desired results with a more stable knit. The garment might look stiff or bulky instead of flowing.

Checking Pattern Recommendations

Always check the pattern envelope or instructions for fabric recommendations. Pattern designers specify suitable fabric types. Following these recommendations helps achieve the best outcome for any project.

Fabric Layout and Cutting Techniques for Double Knit

Cutting on a Single Layer for Precision

For maximum precision, cut Double Knit fabric in a single layer. This method prevents the fabric from shifting or distorting. Lay the fabric flat on a large surface, ensuring it is smooth and free of wrinkles.

Using Weights Instead of Pins

Fabric weights are often preferable to pins when cutting Double Knit. Pins can sometimes distort the fabric or leave small holes. Weights hold the pattern pieces securely in place without damaging the fabric.

Rotary Cutter vs. Scissors

Both sharp fabric scissors and a rotary cutter with a self-healing mat work well for Double Knit. A rotary cutter often provides cleaner, more precise cuts, especially on straight lines and curves. Use sharp tools to avoid jagged edges and fabric distortion.

Ensuring Grainline Accuracy

Accurate grainline placement is critical for how a garment hangs and fits. Place the pattern grainline on the lengthwise or straight grain of the fabric. This direction typically has the most strength. To ensure accuracy, align the selvages together and lay the fabric flat. Adjust it until it hangs without pulls, confirming the fold is on the lengthwise grain. When laying out pattern pieces, align the pattern’s grainline with the fabric’s lengthwise grain, which runs parallel to the selvage. Measure from each end of the pattern piece’s grainline to the folded or selvage edge of the fabric. Adjust the pattern until both measurements are equal. This ensures the grainline is perfectly straight.

Essential Tools and Notions for Double Knit

Successful sewing with Double Knit fabric relies on selecting the correct tools. These tools ensure smooth operation and professional results. Choosing the right needles, threads, and presser feet prevents common issues.

Needles for Double Knit: Ballpoint or Stretch

The right needle prevents fabric damage and ensures smooth stitching. Sewers must choose between ballpoint and stretch needles for knit fabrics.

Preventing Fabric Damage and Snags

A specialized needle prevents damage to knit fibers. Standard sharp needles can cut or break the fabric’s loops. This leads to snags, runs, or holes. Ballpoint and stretch needles have rounded tips. They push between the fabric fibers instead of piercing them. This action protects the fabric’s integrity.

Eliminating Skipped Stitches

Incorrect needle choice often causes skipped stitches. A needle that does not properly interact with the fabric can fail to form a loop for the bobbin thread. This results in an incomplete stitch. Using the correct needle type significantly reduces this problem.

Recommended Needle Sizes

Needle size depends on fabric weight. For Double Knit (DK) fabric, which is a light-weight yarn, recommended knitting needle sizes are US 5-7 or 3.75mm-4.5mm. Most DK yarns typically recommend using 4mm needles.

When choosing between needle types, consider the fabric’s elasticity:

Feature/Usage Ballpoint (Jersey) Needle Stretch Needle
Point Type Rounded tip, works through fibers Rounded tip, works through fibers
Recommended Fabrics All knit fabrics, looser fabrics Highly elastic fabrics like Spandex, Lycra, fabrics with elastic
Double Knit Use Suitable for general knits Suitable for highly elastic double knits
Troubleshooting If skipped stitches, swap for stretch needle If skipped stitches, swap for ballpoint needle

Both needles feature a medium ballpoint. However, stretch needles often have a shorter and narrower eye and a deeper scarf. This design helps prevent skipped stitches, especially on highly elastic materials. Test-stitching on a scrap piece of fabric helps determine the best needle for a specific project.

Thread Choices for Double Knit

Thread choice impacts seam strength and durability. The thread must stretch with the fabric.

Polyester All-Purpose Thread for Strength

Polyester all-purpose thread is an excellent choice for Double Knit fabrics. It possesses inherent stretch. This allows it to move in sync with the fabric. It offers superior strength, preventing breakage when the fabric stretches. Unlike cotton thread, which is prone to snapping with stretch materials, polyester thread provides the necessary ‘give’. An all-purpose polyester thread is generally effective for most applications involving stretch fabrics.

Matching Thread to Fabric Weight

Matching thread weight to fabric weight creates balanced seams. Use a standard all-purpose polyester thread for most Double Knit projects. For very fine or very heavy fabrics, adjust thread weight accordingly. A thread that is too thick can create bulky seams. A thread that is too thin may not provide enough strength.

When to Consider Specialty Threads

Specialty threads offer specific benefits. Wooly nylon thread is ideal for projects requiring stretch accommodation and a professional finish. It suits knit fabric construction, activewear, children’s clothing, and lingerie. Its elastic properties are crucial for seaming stretchy fabrics where conventional threads might fail. Sewers recommend it for leggings and similar stretch garments. Professional sewers choose wooly nylon for jersey knits, spandex blends, and other stretch materials. Seam integrity under stress is vital for these materials. The thread’s ability to stretch and recover prevents seam failure during wear and washing.

Presser Feet for Double Knit: Walking Foot or Differential Feed

Specialized presser feet help manage knit fabrics. They ensure even feeding and prevent distortion.

Ensuring Even Fabric Feeding

Knit fabrics can stretch unevenly when a sewing machine’s feed dogs only move the bottom layer. This causes the top layer to shift or stretch. Specialized presser feet address this issue. They ensure both fabric layers feed through the machine at the same rate.

Preventing Stretching and Wavy Seams

A walking foot, also known as an even foot, prevents stretching and wavy seams. It incorporates an additional set of feed dogs for the top fabric layer. These work with the sewing machine’s bottom feed dogs. This ensures both layers of fabric feed through at the same consistent rate. This synchronized feeding action helps maintain even and smooth seams. It is especially useful when sewing in the direction of the fabric’s stretch. This direction can otherwise cause shifting and stretching. A walking foot attachment effectively feeds both layers of fabric evenly. This prevents the formation of frustrating waves and ripples.

Understanding Differential Feed on a Serger

Differential feed on a serger involves two sets of feed dogs. This differs from a standard sewing machine. The front feed dog’s movement rate can be adjusted relative to the back feed dog. When sewing knit fabrics, which often stretch and create wavy seams, adjust the differential feed towards a higher setting (e.g., 1.5 or 2). This allows the front feed dog to move more fabric than the back. This action prevents stretching and waviness. It ensures a flat and even seam on fabrics. Conversely, a lower setting (e.g., 0.7) can intentionally stretch fabric for effects like a lettuce edge.

Stabilizers and Interfacings for Double Knit

Sewers often use stabilizers and interfacings to enhance the structure and durability of projects. These materials provide crucial support, especially for areas of a garment that experience stress or require crisp shaping. They prevent stretching and maintain the intended form of the fabric.

For Necklines and Facings

Necklines and facings benefit greatly from the application of appropriate interfacing. These areas often need to retain their shape without stretching or distorting during wear. A lightweight fusible knit interfacing works well for Double Knit fabrics. It adds stability without compromising the fabric’s natural drape or elasticity. This ensures necklines lie flat and facings remain smooth.

Supporting Buttonholes and Zippers

Buttonholes and zippers are points of high stress on any garment. Stabilizers provide the necessary reinforcement to prevent the fabric from pulling or tearing around these closures. A small piece of fusible interfacing applied to the wrong side of the fabric before creating a buttonhole or inserting a zipper significantly strengthens the area. This prevents distortion and ensures a clean, professional finish.

Preventing Distortion in Key Areas

Interfacings also prevent distortion in other key areas, such as waistbands, cuffs, and pocket openings. They help these components maintain their crisp edges and structural integrity. Choosing an interfacing with similar stretch properties to the main fabric is important. This ensures the interfaced area moves with the garment, avoiding stiffness or puckering.

Other Helpful Tools for Double Knit

Beyond needles and presser feet, several other tools can significantly improve the experience of sewing with Double Knit. These tools aid in precision, pressing, and overall project management.

Fabric Clips vs. Pins

When working with Double Knit, fabric clips often prove more advantageous than traditional pins. Clips offer several benefits:

  • They are safer to use. Their dull, flat design prevents accidental jabbing.
  • Clips are fabric-friendly. They hold thick and tricky fabrics that pins struggle with, making them ideal for Double Knit.
  • They do not pierce the fabric. This leaves no holes or snags, preserving the material’s integrity.
  • Their bright, thick design makes them highly visible. This reduces the risk of damage to serger blades if accidentally sewn over.
  • Fabric clips easily hold multiple layers of fabric, especially thicker materials, which is beneficial for Double Knit layers.
  • Unlike pins, clips do not bend when used with thicker fabrics and are safer to handle.

Tailor’s Ham and Seam Roll

Proper pressing is essential for professional results, and specialized tools assist this process. A tailor’s ham provides a curved surface for pressing darts, curved seams, and shaped areas like bustlines or sleeve caps. A seam roll offers a narrow, cylindrical surface. Sewers use it to press open seams without leaving press marks on the right side of the fabric. These tools help shape the fabric and prevent flattening the natural curves of a garment.

Good Quality Iron and Press Cloth

A good quality iron with adjustable heat and steam settings is indispensable. It allows precise control over the pressing process. Always use a press cloth when ironing Double Knit. A press cloth protects the fabric from direct heat, preventing shine, scorching, or melting, especially with synthetic blends. It also helps distribute heat and steam evenly, ensuring smooth, crisp seams without damaging the fabric’s surface.

Sewing Techniques for Flawless Double Knit Projects

Sewing Techniques for Flawless Double Knit Projects

Sewing with Double Knit fabric requires specific techniques. These methods ensure professional results and durable garments. Mastering these techniques helps sewers create high-quality projects.

Stitch Selection for Double Knit: Stretch and Zigzag

Choosing the correct stitch is fundamental for Double Knit projects. The fabric’s inherent stretch demands stitches that can move with it.

Maintaining Elasticity in Seams

Sewers must select stitches that maintain the fabric’s elasticity. A seam that does not stretch will pop or break when the garment moves. Many home sewing machines offer specialized stretch stitches. These stitches accommodate the fabric’s give.

  • Triple Straight Stitch: This strong stitch locks three times (forward, backward, forward). It works well for seams on tighter garments. Examples include athletic wear, cuffs, necklines, and hems.
  • Zigzag Stitches: This is a popular recommendation for beginners. Almost all modern machines have this stitch. It finishes raw edges and provides necessary stretch.
  • Three-Step Zigzag: This stitch uses a series of tiny straight stitches diagonally. It prevents tunneling on lighter weight knits. It also creates a flatter stitch.
  • Lightning Bolt Stitch: Sewing machine manuals often recommend this stitch for knits. Its upward and downward motion helps reduce puckering or tunneling. This stitch is shaped like a lightning bolt. It achieves a very stretchy seam without excessive visibility.
  • Overlock / Overedge Stitch: This stitch provides a similar effect to a serger. It forms and finishes the seam simultaneously. It offers strength and a finished quality.
  • Narrow Zigzag Stitch: This common stitch for stretch fabrics provides good stretch. It prevents popped seams. A narrow zigzag is a strong stitch with enough give for regular seams.

Preventing Popped Seams

Popped seams are a common issue with knit fabrics. They occur when the stitch lacks sufficient stretch. Using a stretch stitch prevents this problem. The stitch stretches with the fabric, keeping the seam intact.

Adjusting Stitch Length and Width

Proper stitch length and width are crucial for stretch stitches. These adjustments ensure the stitch performs optimally. For zigzag stitches on Double Knit fabric, sewers should consider specific settings. A stitch width of approximately 0.5mm works well. The stitch length should be between 2.5mm and 3.0mm. These settings provide enough stretch without adding bulk.

Seam Finishes for Neat and Durable Double Knit

Clean seam finishes elevate a project’s appearance and durability. Double Knit fabric benefits from specific finishing techniques.

Serging for Professional Edges

A serger provides the most professional finish for knit fabrics. It trims the seam allowance, stitches the seam, and overcasts the raw edge in one pass. This creates a clean, strong, and stretchy seam. Serged seams are ideal for activewear and garments requiring high durability.

Clean Finishing with a Regular Machine

Sewers can achieve a clean finish on Double Knit seams using a regular sewing machine. This method requires careful attention to detail.

  1. Cutting: Reduce seam allowances to 3/8 inch or less. This prevents bulk. Sewers can adjust the pattern or trim after stitching.
  2. Stitching: Use a straight stitch or a narrow (0.2mm) zigzag stitch. Always test on a scrap fabric. Stretch the seam to check for popping stitches. If stitches pop, increase the zigzag width.
  3. Bulk Elimination: Further reduce bulk by ensuring seam allowances are 1/4 to 3/8 inch. For darts, trim away the inner ‘meat’ after sewing. This minimizes excess fabric.

Topstitching for Decorative and Functional Seams

Topstitching adds both decorative appeal and functional strength. It secures seam allowances and prevents them from rolling. Use a twin needle for a professional look on hems and necklines. A longer stitch length often works best for topstitching on knits.

High-End Garment Seam Examples

High-end garments often feature meticulously finished seams. Designers use flat-felled seams or bound seams for a luxurious interior. These finishes are less common for Double Knit due to its bulk. However, a well-executed serged or clean-finished seam provides a high-quality result.

Pressing Techniques for Professional Double Knit Results

Pressing is a vital step in sewing. It shapes the fabric and sets stitches. Proper pressing techniques are especially important for Double Knit fabric.

Using a Press Cloth to Prevent Shine

Always use a press cloth when ironing Double Knit. Direct heat can cause synthetic fibers to melt or develop a permanent shine. A press cloth protects the fabric surface. It also helps distribute heat evenly.

Avoiding Over-Pressing and Stretching

Avoid excessive pressure or prolonged heat when pressing. Over-pressing can flatten the fabric’s texture. It can also stretch the fabric, distorting the garment’s shape. Use a gentle touch and lift the iron rather than sliding it.

Appropriate Steam Settings

Steam helps relax fibers and set seams. Use a moderate steam setting. Too much steam can saturate the fabric, leading to stretching. Test steam settings on a scrap piece of fabric first.

Pressing as You Go

Pressing each seam as you sew is a crucial habit. This practice ensures flat, crisp seams throughout the construction process. It also helps maintain the garment’s shape. Pressing as you go prevents wrinkles from becoming permanent.

Hemming Double Knit: Methods for a Clean Finish

Hems on knit fabrics require careful attention. They must stretch with the garment. They also need a neat, professional appearance. Several methods achieve clean, durable hems on Double Knit fabric. Each method offers distinct advantages for different project needs.

Twin Needle for a Ready-to-Wear Look

A twin needle creates a professional, ready-to-wear finish on hems. This specialized needle has two needles mounted on a single shank. It forms two parallel lines of straight stitches on the right side of the fabric. A zigzag stitch forms on the wrong side. This zigzag stitch provides the necessary stretch. It prevents the hem from popping when the fabric moves. Sewers often use a twin needle for T-shirt hems, neckbands, and sleeve cuffs. They achieve a clean, durable, and stretchy finish.

Coverstitch Machine for Professional Hems

A coverstitch machine offers the most professional hem finish for knit garments. It creates parallel rows of stitching on the top side of the fabric. It also forms a serged-like stitch on the underside. This machine is specifically designed for hemming and decorative stitching on knit fabrics. It provides superior stretch and durability. Many ready-to-wear garments feature coverstitched hems. A coverstitch machine produces a clean, flat, and highly elastic hem. This makes it ideal for activewear and high-quality apparel.

Blind Hem Stitch for Invisible Finishes

A blind hem stitch provides an invisible finish. This stitch is suitable for garments where visible stitching is undesirable. Most sewing machines offer a blind hem stitch setting. The machine creates small, intermittent stitches that catch only a few threads of the fabric. This makes the stitches nearly invisible on the right side. Sewers often use a blind hem foot with their machine. This foot guides the fabric and ensures consistent stitch placement. A blind hem works well for formal wear or projects requiring a very clean, understated hemline.

Stabilizing Hems with Fusible Webbing

Stabilizing hems prevents stretching, puckering, or waving. Fusible webbing offers an excellent solution for this purpose. It bonds the hem allowance edge to the wrong side of the garment using heat. This method adds stability without excessive bulk.

Recommended stabilizers include hand-cut tricot interfacing, Heat n Bond Soft Stretch Lite, and tricot interfacing rolls. Tricot interfacing rolls, typically 1 inch wide, are convenient for knit hems. Heat n Bond Soft Stretch Lite is a ⅝-inch wide double-sided fusible webbing. It does not add bulk. It also avoids leaving residue on needles.

To use Heat n Bond, iron it to the hem edge with the paper side up. Do not use steam during this step. Once the webbing cools, peel off the paper backing. Then, press the hem with steam to bond it securely.

Fusible webbing is thinner and more sheer than regular hem tape. This reduces bulk. It also minimizes negative effects on the fabric’s drape. Sewers can cut fusible web to their desired width. When applying, use a damp cloth between the fabric and the iron. Press the iron rather than running it. Avoid stretching the webbing during application.

Always pretest on a scrap piece of fabric. This ensures proper bonding. It also checks for bleed-through or staining. Be mindful of how the fusible material affects the garment’s drape. If it stiffens the hemline negatively, consider an alternative method.

For Double Knit, nonwoven interfacing can also stabilize hems. First, cut the interfacing to the width of the hem. Then, press the interfacing onto the wrong side of the fabric. Align it with the raw edge. Serge the raw edge of the hem. Press the hem up along the edge of the interfacing. Use the interfacing’s edge as a guide for a sharp fold. Finally, topstitch or hand-stitch the hem in place.

Troubleshooting Common Double Knit Challenges

Sewers sometimes encounter specific difficulties when working with Double Knit fabric. These challenges include managing bulk, preventing stretching, and addressing skipped stitches. Understanding how to overcome these issues ensures successful project outcomes.

Dealing with Bulk in Double Knit Seams

Double Knit fabric‘s inherent thickness can create bulky seams. This often affects the garment’s drape and appearance. Several techniques help reduce this bulk.

Grading Seams for Reduced Thickness

Grading a seam allowance effectively thins the seam. This technique involves trimming the layers of fabric in a seam allowance into graduated tiers. These tiers resemble stairs. This method is crucial for seams with multiple layers or those made with heavy fabrics. It prevents bulkiness.

To grade a seam allowance, first press the seam. This step is especially useful for seams pressed to one side. Position the seam with the wrong side facing up. This reveals all fabric layers. Identify the layer closest to the body when worn; this layer will be the shortest. The layer farthest away will be the longest. The longest layer helps push shorter layers into place. Trim the innermost layer to about 1/8 inch (3mm). Each additional layer should be trimmed 1/8 inch longer than the previous one. This creates a staircase effect. For example, with two layers, the innermost is 1/8 inch, and the outermost is 1/4 inch. With three layers, the innermost is 1/8 inch, the middle is 1/4 inch, and the outermost is 3/8 inch. Finally, press the graded seam into place. This technique prevents a visible bump along the seam once the fabric is turned right side out and pressed.

Pressing Seams Open or to One Side

Pressing seams open or to one side also helps manage bulk. Pressing seams open distributes the fabric evenly. This reduces the concentration of material in one area. Pressing to one side, especially after grading, can create a smoother finish.

Trimming Seam Allowances Appropriately

Trimming seam allowances reduces excess fabric. After stitching, carefully trim the seam allowance to a consistent width. This prevents unnecessary bulk.

Preventing Stretching and Distortion in Double Knit

Double Knit fabric is stable, but it can still stretch or distort if handled improperly. Careful techniques prevent these issues.

Careful Handling During Sewing

Handle the fabric gently during sewing. Avoid pulling or stretching it as it feeds through the machine. Let the machine’s feed dogs do the work.

Staystitching Curved Edges

Staystitching prevents curved edges from stretching out of shape. Stitch a line of regular stitches just inside the seam line on curved areas like necklines or armholes. This stabilizes the fabric before construction.

Using Temporary Adhesives or Spray Starch

Temporary adhesives or spray starch can add stability to the fabric. Apply these products to the wrong side of the fabric before cutting or sewing. This helps the fabric maintain its shape.

Addressing Skipped Stitches in Double Knit

Skipped stitches can be frustrating. They often indicate a problem with the machine or needle.

Changing to a Fresh Ballpoint or Stretch Needle

A fresh ballpoint or stretch needle is often the first solution. Worn or incorrect needles can cause stitches to skip. These specialized needles push between fabric fibers rather than piercing them.

Adjusting Tension Settings

Incorrect tension settings can also cause skipped stitches. Adjust the machine’s tension dials. Test the settings on a scrap piece of fabric until stitches form correctly.

Cleaning Your Machine

Lint accumulation can interfere with stitch formation. Regularly clean the machine, especially the bobbin area and feed dogs. A burr on the hook mechanism can also cause skipped stitches. Machine timing issues can also contribute to this problem. Continuously pulling on knits during sewing can throw off the machine’s timing. This leads to skipped stitches. Incorrect presser foot pressure can also cause fabric flagging and skipped stitches.

Managing Wavy Seams in Double Knit

Wavy seams present a common challenge when sewing with knit fabrics. These ripples occur when the fabric stretches during stitching. Sewers can employ several strategies to achieve flat, professional seams. These methods prevent the fabric from distorting as it passes through the machine.

Using a Walking Foot or Differential Feed

A walking foot is an invaluable tool for preventing wavy seams. This specialized presser foot features its own set of feed dogs. These upper feed dogs work in conjunction with the machine’s lower feed dogs. They grip the top layer of fabric. This action ensures both fabric layers feed evenly under the needle. The synchronized movement prevents the top layer from stretching or shifting. This results in a smooth, flat seam.

Serger machines offer a differential feed mechanism. This feature allows users to adjust the speed of the front feed dogs relative to the back feed dogs. Increasing the differential feed setting causes the front feed dogs to move faster. This gently eases the fabric into the needle. This action prevents stretching and eliminates waviness. It is particularly effective for delicate or stretchy knit fabrics.

Reducing Presser Foot Pressure

Reducing presser foot pressure significantly helps prevent wavy seams. The presser foot holds the fabric against the feed dogs. Too much pressure can stretch the fabric as it moves. This stretching leads to undesirable ripples.

Reducing presser foot pressure is crucial for lighter fabrics and knits. It prevents waviness in seams. Experimentation helps find the optimal setting for specific fabrics. A general guideline suggests significantly decreasing pressure for knits compared to woven fabrics. For example, a setting of 2.0 for knits works well. This contrasts with a setting of 5.0 for wovens without Lycra. One user specifically notes using a pressure setting of ’2′ for knits on their machine. This contrasts with a ’4′ for wovens. This user observes that this eliminates the need for a walking foot with knits. This adjustment allows the fabric to feed more freely. It minimizes stretching under the foot.

Avoiding Pulling the Fabric

Sewers must avoid pulling the fabric while stitching. Pulling the fabric manually stretches it. This action directly causes wavy seams. Instead, allow the machine’s feed dogs to guide the fabric. Gently support the fabric from the front and back of the needle. Do not apply any tension. This gentle handling ensures the fabric feeds naturally. It maintains its original shape. This technique is essential for achieving flat, professional seams on any Double Knit project.


By applying these comprehensive tips, one can master Double Knit fabric in sewing projects throughout 2025 and beyond. Its stability and ease of handling, when combined with the right techniques, make it a rewarding material. Sewers confidently create durable, professional-looking garments and home decor with this versatile fabric.

FAQ

What is double knit fabric?

Double knit fabric features two layers of stitches. Manufacturers create this fabric using two needle beds. This construction provides stability and minimal stretch. It also offers excellent recovery. The edges do not curl, simplifying handling during sewing.

Why is double knit easier to sew than other knits?

Double knit fabric is easier to sew due to its stability. Its edges do not curl or roll. This characteristic allows for more precise cutting. It also simplifies seam alignment. Sewers find it less frustrating than other knit types.

What kind of needle should one use for double knit?

Sewers should use a ballpoint or stretch needle for double knit fabric. These needles have rounded tips. They push between fabric fibers instead of piercing them. This action prevents snags, runs, and skipped stitches.


Post time: Oct-12-2025